This volcanic Island that I have been venturing on has hidden secrets from the past. I could not find what I was looking for in the South of the island where many folk to put their feet up and relax. I headed to the North in search of something a little more gripping that would satisfy my thirst.
I hiked up over a mountain range to reach the other side of this Island. It took me a fair few hours of walking I don't know how long as I never looked at the time when I left, but the sun was still high. AIs I walked up the mountain I passed through many larva field's from previous eruptions, it must of been one hell of a sight seeing this river of molten rock coming towards you destroying whatever lay in its path. “The larva fields are a strange place I hope you can all experience this place one day” I found them extremely quiet, for me it was a little weird I don't really know why and it’s hard to describe. Your just have to go and see for yourself.
Throughout the day on the other side I had walked for around 15km and hitched around 5km. Popping in to ports and quiet bays taking in my surroundings that has been created over time from the volcanic eruptions throughout history. Reclaiming back it’s ground from conquering distant lands that set up home thinking all would be safe. Towards the end of the day and a little more suntan that is now making me look even more Arabic, I was faced with the North Atlantic ocean, and this mountain range that stretched out to the right of me into the distant North that I would soon be walking upon.
I sat on the rocky lava beach for a while where I soaked up the warm rays of the sun occasional thoughts of where i'd sleep for the night popped in and out of my head whilst scanning the surrounding area of the geographic terrain that has been created by the huge power from beneath my feet, and how life has adapted to this place.
Whilst passing my time I watched all the creatures in the many lava rock pools around me, taking a dip from time to time to cool of from the heat. Having my feet cleaned by the little creatures of the deep took some time to get use to, flinching a little as the bigger ones wanted a nibble, you could feel the small little, almost transparent crayfish pulling at the lose skin, watching their little pinchers go to work, cleaning where the toenail meets the skin and feeling that sensation did take awhile to get use to but after some minutes I got use to it. A few fishermen pop by with the turn of the tide where they cast their line into the ocean in hope to catch supper for three nights tea. I got talking to a fisherman where we had a good conversation about different subject's. He told me that I should go to these mountains to get a taste where time stands still, that there are many villages in the area, and that traditional ways are still part of their daily life.
I asked him more about these mountains and what was hidden within its distant peaks and secluded bays, he spoke of Pirate hideouts where tunnels still await to be discovered, small picturesque villages, local delicacy, cheese and wine from the vineyards that sit on the slopes of these mountains. That many people still chose to live in caves because they are warm in the winter and cool in the summer months, plus many of their own generation's lived in them so they are past down to them.
He told me I should head to up a trail that was not to far from where we were. The trail would lead me to a village, and from that village I could ask questions how to get to the next village. All I have to do is find and follow the well trodden path that wind and twist through time, “just ask the locals for directions your be fine” I wrote down a number of place that he mentioned to help me out with where I was heading to. The time now was 18:00 in the evening so I set off on the trail that lead me up into the mountains, I had around 7 km to travel and calculated, given the uphill terrain and the weight in my pack I should be able to make it to the village for sunset at a relaxing pace and find a good spot to camp for the night.
As I climbed higher I past many cactus plant, small lizards and butterflies, caves that I would've loved to of stayed in but it was still to early. I had to stop a few times to sit down and pinch myself that I was on another mission feeling alive once again. I promised myself that I would keep my phone switched off throughout this journey to truly take time out, to use my Spanish skills and intuition to get me through this northern land.
I made it to the village where there are house built into the rock that half hides them. They looked very posh, the outside walls paint reds and blues with plant pots placed very elegantly along there varandas, with wooden benches stretched across their rocky outpost looking out towards great natural beauty. I had made it in time for sunset and found a nice spot to camp looking out over the ocean, with the sunsetting to the west I lay down my bed for the night, prepared dinner on the fire that was fresh bread and a rice dish followed by banana and melted chocolate on top with honey combined with a few crushed nuts sprinkled on top.
The following day I was up early, I was packed and ready to go for 07:30, finding a bar for a “cafe con leche” for a boost to start the day. The barmen was a little rude towards me but I persevered with his attitude, and made an effort to break this rudeness where he warmed to me rewarding me with a free coffee and some good information accompanied with directions that would see me through my day. It was a nice day, following the coastline from up high, looking down at the variation of blues that the ocean held in it’s hand. Alot up up and downs and water was not a problem as I managed to find a water source that I drank directly from.
As I walked along you could hear all the little lizards scurrying along in the volcanic scrub, running in front of me dashing from side to side, Sitting down for a while they would pop out to see what I was upto, but later found out they are very keen to be feed. The walking was fair and took me through a tree line where the strong winds had shaped their branches over time that made them intertwine with each other on points. On the slopes thier aware cactus plants tall and small, colours of lime greens with spiky thorns all over them that I dread slip and fall on to.
The sun was now at it’s highest, the trail took me down to a bay, so I thought I go for a swim to freshen up and to take some te out from the day. I underestimated the tide of the North Atlantic ocean, the tide took me out fast to my surprise and had started to struggled a little to get back to shore, I managed to body surf a wave in the end that nearly landed me on some rather nasty rocks. It was a nice and refreshing workout all the same, I sat on the shoreline thinking of the past times were shipwrecked crew must found that sea strong and powerful where many must have perished.
Throughout my days in the north I passed through a number of villages, learning about how certain parts of the north had been the stopping place for many sailing ships to the new world “America” how the spanish claimed the land and and built church's leaving behind certain religious items in these places of worship. How the Islanders survived in the dry lands by trying there best to preserve the forest where the leaves would collect the rain and water due, filtering it back down through the rock where they were able to harvest the water, to grow their crops and vineyards from. How they used the mountains to carve their house out of and all so carve into for their wine making production for various stages until barreled.
Walking through the day I would pick prickly pears to eat, this is the fruit that the cactus plant produce, they are varied in colours from green to red about 4inches tall and 2-3 inches in diameter when they are ready to eat. After carefully handling them, you could cut into the pear, where the fruit was protected from the elements of the weather and creatures. Lunch was always good, local food at the village bars or picnics on route sat on rocks looking out to sea.
I met a few people on my journey, Where I was invited in to stay for the night, or just for a chat and a coffee. One guy I came across had lived in a cave for 9 years after losing his wife from a tragic accident where the car she was sat in rolled of the edge of a cliff and killed her, he told me how he managed to deal with this great loss, and how he managed to survive of the land along with tapping into the key of life “ The water supply from the mountain” Another person who I meet along my way was a lady whose husband was very rich, she had everything but happiness with her husband, so one day she packed that life up and found a new life walking away from it all. Found a new partner where they made their home here in the North of the Island. Both extremely interesting characters, I stayed with them for a night and there cooking was superb learning how they expand on the cave that must of been hard work, a view that a 5 star hotel would charge thousands for.
I loved my time in the North chatting away to local people, visiting their villages and caves asking them the way to my next destination, walking along the paths taking in the countryside and rock formations, the colours and the smells, the creature that live there. Trying out the local tapas. Camping out from time to time, waking up with some great views of the ocean. Having the fortune luck in meeting those few people who shared their life stories, kindness and food made the trip more memorable.
I headed back down to the coast to write this story, sat on this sandy beach I spent most of the day chilling out, but then that feeling started to kick in, I needed to move ! . I started to feel agitated sat there on that beach. so once again I got going, walking into the night taking a few snap shots along the way to wherever I was off to, finally finding a place to settle for the night.
Thanks for showing intrest.
Don't know what happened there got to do it all again oh well. It's amazing mate to talk to people on your travels and live there way of life for one night as so different to are way of life the sites you see are wonderful breath taking views you be careful what you eat lol
ReplyDeleteThanks Ian, have a nice day.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ian, have a nice day.
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